09 January 2008

Southern Italy

We have had a great past week in southern Italy. We visited Napoli for a day on Friday, then took the spectacular (and death-defying) bus ride along the Amalfi Coast on Saturday. Sunday we bar-hopped all day; coffee bars, that is. It was a drizzly day (as so many have been lately) and we had no agenda and little cash, so we spent the entire day traipsing from bar to bar, downing cappuccinos, and people-watching. It was quite a nice day.

Monday was our 10-year anniversary of the day we started dating (!) and Tuesday our 4-month wedding anniversary. We celebrated by spending those days on the enchanting island of Capri. We stayed at a B&B in Anacapri, the western side of the island, which is at a higher elevation so has amazing views of Capri, the Mediterranean, and the mainland coast. We visited an old monastery, an enormous natural arch (very neat), and some lookout points and Tuesday we did a long hike along the entire west coast of the island. Just beautiful.

Today we are en route to Taormina, Sicily where we will be house-sitting until early February. The train ride from Naples has been excrutiating due to the fact that we've been crammed six-seat train compartment with possibly the rudest and most repulsive family Italy has to offer. THREE of the seats in our compartment have been occupied by this family of FIVE (yes, that's correct). Two obese mothers, a teenage girl, two kids under 4. The mothers openly talk about us and even point and laugh, and don't flinch from the most pointed glare. The teenager was singing at the top of her voice and actually got spit on us. They were hitting and yelling at the kids the whole time and put the window down even though the elderly woman also in our car said she was too cold and asked them to close it. The more obese woman has been laying back with her feet up on the opposite seat and her stomach exposed. They were all eating chips and candy and leaving the wrappers on the floor. And this is within a compartment approximately seven feet long by six feet wide. Luckily they got off a while back, leaving behind lots of trash and an unpleasant odor. We'll post a transcript of our email conversation for your enjoyment.


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07 January 2008

Do you smell something?

We were wondering about all the trash on the streets in Sorrento (in Campania, same district as Naples)...

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/22541976/
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04 January 2008

Happy New Year!

We rang in the new year in Palermo and had a great time. They had a fun Italian rock band in the main city square, along with lots of vendors selling bottles of champagne and firecrackers going off everwhere all the time. New Year's Eve was one time we were glad to be wearing our frighteningly un-stylish raincoats because at midnight everyone in the square popped their champangne corks and we all got drenched. Most of the locals had umbrellas.

The next night we took an overnight ferry from Palermo to Napoli. They actually made us get off the boat at 6:30am so by 6:45 the two of us were wandering around the Napoli dockyard in the dark (seems everyone else arranged to be picked up). We made our way to the Circumvesuvio train station, which will be our primary means of transportation for the next week because it links Napoli, Sorrento, and Pompei and is very inexpensive. By 9am we had dropped off our packs at our B&B and were sitting in a cafe in downtown Sorrento drinking glorious cappuccinos (how we survived without daily cappuccino for the past 25 years is a true mystery). Sorrento is an absolutely wonderful, beautiful place. Highly recommended. We are staying at a cooking school called Mami Camilla that also provides some accomodations. It's lovely. We would have liked to take a day of cooking classes but they're a bit pricey so we'll have to make due with eating the meals prepared by the cooking classes - also a bit pricey but reputed to be worth it.

Yesterday we spent the day at Pompei which is so fascinating. The most remarkable thing about the city, compared to other archaeological sites we've seen, is how enormous it is. We spent four hours walking around there and probably saw less than half, and that is only of the 12 acres currently open to the public! There are over 30 acres not open for touring because they're still being excavated. It's amazing to see how well people really lived 2000 years ago - big multi-story houses, apartments for rent, shops and restaurants of all kinds, sewage systems and fresh drinking water, wide sidewalks, spaces for recreation and performance. Incredible!

Today we're headed back to Napoli for the day to visit the archaeological museum where they have all of the artwork and objects excavated from Pompei and hopefully to eat some delicious pizza since that's where it was invented!



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30 December 2007

Sicilia

We arrived in Palermo at 1am this morning and have just enjoyed our first day in Sicilia. The city is wonderful; old, warm, scuffed, and colorful like no other place we've been. The streets are narrow and noisy, the sidewalks and bars are crowded, and everything is a magical mixture of Greek and Arab-influenced architecture against a dramatic backdrop of green mountains falling directly into the ocean, leaving just enough room between them for a cheerily busy city. Today we walked through the biggest street market we've ever seen, complete with leather boots, massive cross-sectioned swordfish, fresh canolis, and table after table of firecrackers. These endearing toys go off, without exaggeration, about once every five minutes throughout the city, bringing to mind mafioso shootouts that could just as easily be happening down the next block.

In short, every aspect of what it means to be "Italian" thrives and jostles around every corner in this city, but with such a relaxed small-community feeling that it is much more enjoyable and memorable (not to say amusing) than anywhere else. It is as if one day thousands of years ago, everything that makes "the Boot" Italian hopped lightly across the water and squeezed onto the tiny island of Sicilia, leaving behind only that charming Roman vanity (apparently couldn't jump in stilettos), and has remained there ever since, joyfully condensed and crowded and blissfully unaware of the existence of any other way of life.

We had delicious pizza for dinner and are back at our lovely hotel for the night, eagerly awaiting tomorrow's New Year's Eve festivities. Thank you again Pete and Drew for the accomodations!
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Congratulations to the Hotalings!!!

Congratulations to our wonderful friends Drew and Jess on the birth of Calla!!!!! We are so happy for you and can't wait to meet our little god-daughter!!!!
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25 December 2007

Merry Christmas!

Reporting live from Starbucks in Barcelona, where we are celebrating our holiday amid mocha praline lattes, familiar red Starbucks holiday cups, and American Christmas music (currently Elvis, Blue Christmas).

Thinking of and missing you all - hope everyone is having a wonderful holiday!


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23 December 2007

Adios from Barcelona

Lu again. We have just returned from our final dinner here in Spain with Marisa & Ed and we could not bring ourselves to leave the restaurant or return to the hotel because it would be the end of the trip. Obviously, we could not sleep on the street so we did finally come back to the hotel when we realized none of the stores were open so late on a Sunday night. One thing that must be said about my blogs is that I am a person of visual identification. I could get you from your desk chair to the Parc Guell here in Barcelona without missing a turn by describing construction zones, restaurants, buildings, or piles of dog poop you would see on your way and would mark turns. Marisa offered to provide the names of each of the museums/monuments/places we visited and posted about, but this is my blog and I do not function in such a way.
 
So, we left off with our departure to The Four Cats on Friday evening which was another delicious feast. This is the restaurant where Picasso designed the menu and completed many of his works. I ate veal. Veal. The reason is because even the mixed green salad at this restaurant had fish. I ordered the veal and I ate it all, quite a surprise! I really did enjoy it as it was juicy, thick, and melted in my mouth. It may become one of my new favorites, but probably not. I'm just on a food high right now I believe. Dad's fish came on a plate as though they had just taken it from the water and placed it on some rice. He OKed the filet then they removed the scales, eyes, and other parts one would not wish to consume and finally served it rather regularly. We were all a bit worried at first though. This was another 3-4 course meal that was enjoyed by all. A cute old man was playing the a combination of beatles and holiday music on a small piano as entertainment with dinner. The restaurant was beautiful and the front bar was all the original wood. We must admit that this restaurant, although delicious, was a lot of hype and not as good as was expected for the price. We would all suggest that if you plan to visit Barcelona that you definitely go to Le Quatre Gats but go for lunch or for a bar experience.
 
On Saturday, yesterday, we hiked hundreds of miles at about a 90 degree angle up hill. What was at the top? Gaudi. He created a weird park that reminded us of Dr. Suess and is where the famous mosaic spanish lizard lives. Apparently, this park was supposed to be a traditional english garden but we can assure you things went a bit wrong in that plan. Parc Guell is a definite visit though so I am very glad we went. We also bought some souvenirs on the way which made the trip up a bit easier! Instead of walking the hundreds of miles back, we took the metro to Barceloneta where we had been earlier in the week to visit some shops highlighted in our travel guide. Before walking until our legs became jelly, so earlier in the morning, we visited the Barcelona Cathedral and went to the top to take pictures of the city and ourselves. It was a very extravagant and they had a walk-through creche set up in the cloisters which we visited and Marisa used the bathroom which also appeared to be set up during Jesus' birth as well. The creche is very big here and the tree is not. The Christmas trees here are super tiny and skinny but the creches are huge. Almost the entire Christmas bazarre is filled with small and large objects that may be used in one's cresche. The scenes are very detailed including running water fountains, people going to the bathroom, bugs, stars, hay, elderly people in rocking chairs that are motorized, etc. It's very weird, but fun.  After walking around for the entire day we were all exhausted and came back to the hotel for our siesta. My favorite. I napped, of course, and Marisa and Ed made their plans for the following 5 days before they leave for Italy. They have decided to stay here as there is still so much to do and it will be somewhat familiar to them for their holiday. We went to a restaurant in our book but it was really just a bar including rolling papers, so we decided to find somewhere else. After passing on many restaurants and tapas bars, we ended up at this two story restaurant which has become one of our favorites (not surprisingly). We had a waitor from Florida whose Mom is British and his Dad is Cuban so he has all kinds of passports. He has been in Spain for a year and a half but he hopes to return to the states in the next few years. We liked him a lot and he only enhanced our already great experience. We ate LOTS of food and left feeling slightly sick, but it was worth it and I'd do it again.
 
Today, our final day, was very relaxed. We went to a few final landmarks and then spent the rest of the day shopping and buying Christmas gifts for family and friends. Much to our dismay, it was extremely hard to find "spanish" souvenirs or really anything that one would want to own in their life. Finding a simple shirt that says "Barcelona" was one of the toughest jobs all day! It was nice to walk around without a map as we have become very familiar with the city and it was fun to recognize places. We finally found churros which we thought would be easy as they are the "most popular breakfast food", but nobody we have encountered from Barcelona has even heard of them nor sold them. Of course, after we found them we saw them all over the place but ours were probably the best. We ate them by the water/harbor as today was a gorgeous sunny day. After shopping some more and stopping for pints of beer and coca-lights, we returned to the hotel for our shortest siesta by far. It was a mere forty minutes and I was unable to take a nap, how unfortunate. We were very hungry though since we shopped through lunch minus the beer and churros. We returned to Taller de Tapas which is where we ate the first night, but this time we knew how to order. 10 plates. 2 for Dad and Ed and 3 for Maris and I each. The best. If you visit Barcelona  you must visit Taller de Tapas which is a chain but the specific one we went to has the best service in the city, we think. For dessert this evening I had "chocolate sin" and I would never go to confession for it. I would repeat this sin till death without hesitation. We are sad that our trip has come to an end but are fortunate for the experience and look forward to seeing Marisa & Ed back in the States!
 
Some random observations of our trip:
-- When climbing the 3 flights of stairs to our room at least 3 times a day, we all file up in the exact same order. When we realized this about half way through our trip we made a point to climb them in the same manor though it wasn't hard since for some reason it was usually in order anyway! Lauryn, Marisa, Ed, Dad. This is sort of a bad order since Ed and Dad always carry the room keys which leaves Marisa and I waiting at the end of the hall for them to finish the climb.
-- Everyone speaks English if you give them the "I'm dumb" look when they say something in another language. Even when we sort of understood the language we would just sit and stare until they repeated it in English. Sometimes we would just say no or nevermind when ordering something that was not clear instead of going through the process of translation.
-- Spain does not serve Mexican food. Spanish food does not include salsa, burritos, "case-a-dee-as", tacos, or chimichangas.
-- People in Barcelona do not use their cell phones in restaurants or on the streets. We only saw a handfull of people on their cell phones during our trip, remarkable. I really liked that aspect and have actually survived without mine.
-- Americans are the only people who wear jeans and sneakers on a daily basis. Europeans, at least in Spain, get dressed every day.
-- Pattern black stockings are very popular, especially among the short old ladies in the city.
-- If you do not bring your own watch, you will never know the time as there are no clocks to be found in the city. There are over a million watch shops, but no clocks. Not even in our hotel room. Time does not seem to matter in Spain.
-- Even if pastries are on an open platter and are definitely the leftovers of breakfast, THEY ARE NOT FREE. We found this out after having "stolen" many pastries as a light snack and now there is a 24 hour guard in front of the platter. I have to admit that we did continue to take pastries even after being told twice that they are not free, but they are stale and nobody is going to pay for them anyway. They are simply wasting food and we see it as helping them out by eating them, regardless of their price. We made a comment about the pastries at the bar on our comment card, do not worry. If you come here hopefully the pastries will be free!
-- In order to work the lights and other power outlets in your hotel room, you must insert one of your room keys into a little doodle thing which turns on the electricity for your room. This is odd and since our heat does not work very well in this refurbished palace, we do not appreciate the maids taking our card out of the doodle everyday. We made a comment about this too.
 
Well, our cab will be here (it is going to drive right up pedestrian way since there are no "streets" near our hotel) very early in the morning to take us away. If you have the priviledge to visit Barcelona, I am sure you will enjoy it just as much as we have. We have not run out of things to do and are leaving wishing we had many more days to wander and experience the city. This is a city I will be sure to visit again. Be sure to check the pictures because we have now loaded almost all of them.
 
We love you Barcelona!
 
Farewell Spain and Marisa & Ed's blog.
 
Lu
 
 
(and Dad)